Last Valentine’s day, I wrote a glowing and rather lengthy review of Milagro Cantina on Lake Street downtown. It was, by any account, a love letter to the elegant authentic Mexican cuisine that founding chef Christopher Peterson carefully crafted through months of research and recipe testing. I also found the decor charming, with colorful lanterns and warm wood accenting Milagro’s imaginative interior.

Changes are an inevitable part of any new restaurant; menu flexibility is essential to success. Sometimes restaurants even have to start from scratch with a completely different concept. Take West Seattle's critically acclaimed Spring Hill, for example, which recently transformed into Ma'ono Fried Chicken and Whiskey in an effort to attract more customers. There are ways to deal with business realities and still maintain integrity.

But, what about a restaurant that compromises on a founding concept until it crosses the line? Can it still claim its authentic roots?

There are close to a million (or at least a good gazillion) standard Mexican restaurants on the Eastside -- four in downtown Kirkland alone. Milagro Cantina was special because it was unexpected. Its concept was dedicated to authentic upscale Mexican cuisine, an integrity that prevented Americanized items such as nachos or even fajitas from making the menu cut.

Last November, with Peterson's departure and new Chef Kristin Mills at the helm, Milagro Cantina implemented some changes. Some were probably necessary, such as adding a “regular” salsa to the pre-dinner trio and even changing dish names from Spanish to English on the menu -- if you ever tried to order the huachinango, you know what I mean. The pork belly Chef Mills added to the menu may have had dubious Mexican roots, but it was good.

That’s why it was disappointing to experience some of the more recent changes. My family went in on a Tuesday night, fully expecting a delicious dinner. We asked for chips and salsa (FYI: they are no longer free), and they arrived with the dark red chipotle, the green tomatillo and a “regular” salsa that tasted suspiciously like it came from a jar with a squeeze of lime and a bit of fresh cilantro. My son loved it, but is it too much to ask for some fresh pico de gallo at an authentic Mexican restaurant?

We decided to try some of the new items on the happy hour menu, having slipped in the door just before the 6 p.m. cutoff time – bacon-wrapped slider dogs? Crispy battered shrimp?

The hot dog slider was just plain bad and was not wrapped in bacon as advertised. The crispy battered shrimp were nothing more than deep fried shrimp with a chipotle mayo dipping sauce, the batter gummy and lacking flavor. Where was that delicious pork belly? Unfortunately, it didn’t make the cut -- though, in fairness, pork belly can be a hard sell to a suburban crowd uncomfortable with eating something that reminds them of an actual animal body part.

Other menu changes include a Milagro-style chorizo spiced hamburger and a smothered burrito available during lunch. Gone is the jicama-pineapple salad and the queso fundido, that warm, gooey cheese perfect for scooping up with a fresh tortilla. Even the tacos have been tweaked to fulfill a “bigger is better” mantra with larger tortillas and a $5 price tag (less if you order more than one). But the original four-bite tacos allowed diners to try a few different kinds without filling up -- the ability to eat a variety was appealing.

At least the churros are still on the menu, with changes only affecting the choices of dipping sauce. My favorite key lime crema has been replaced with, perhaps, a more crowd-friendly raspberry coulis.

In truth, these menu changes might be well received by many customers. I have friends who will be excited to see new salads on the menu, not caring one whit if they are authentic Mexican. The building is still beautiful and there are some remaining original items like the Pacific Sea Bass (formerly called by its Spanish name Lubina a la Veracruzana).

Initially, I felt disgruntled toward the restaurant for removing many of my favorite items. However it was tactfully pointed out to me that dishes were primarily cut as a result of customer feedback. So, perhaps part of the responsibility lies with the public for ordering only preconceived notions of Mexican food.

It is just a little sad to see such a great idea diminished for a few extra happy hour bucks. Though places like Applebees thrive for this very reason, I mourn the loss of the original concept, which so artfully avoided the lowest common culinary denominator with dignity, pride and creativity.

Sure, restaurants are businesses that need to make money -- I get that. But the best are more than just a business, elevating your palate in surprising ways. Though Milagro Cantina is still a far cry from Brand X Mexican Restaurant, its claim on Mexican authenticity appears to be shifting towards tenuous.