Trellis and Hopworks Brewery Team Up For Second Annual Beer Dinner

IN MANY parts of the country, there are beer people and there are wine people, the former stereotypically blue collar, low-brows found guzzling suds in taverns, the latter swirling and sipping with pinkie extended and white collar starched. Times have changed, however, and fine dining establishments are embracing the working stiff’s beverage with open arms (pinkies still slightly extended).

Of course, the Northwest has been one of the hottest regions in craft brewing for years. We could all probably name a few artisan small-batch brewers within a 20-mile radius of Kirkland. And while we love our Mac & Jacks, our Hale’s Ales and our Pike Brewing Company, Portland is where the barley soda action is really hopping. According to the Oregon Brewers Guild website, Portland has more breweries than any other city in the world (43) and Oregon is the second largest producer of craft beer in the nation.

In 2010, restaurant in Kirkland's hosted its first beer pairing dinner with Portland’s Hopworks Urban Brewery (HUB), a green company producing organic beers and pushing sustainable practices like a biodiesel-fired brew kettle and buildings built with reclaimed and recycled materials. This partnership is a natural fit with .

However, pairing food with beer instead of the usual wine list can have its challenges -- and advantages.

“Beers are more fun,” says Trellis chef Brian Scheehser, only half-joking. “Seeing as I am constantly considering wine pairings when cooking, it’s fun to have a new direction.”

He goes on to say that the staff appears more invested in the process of pairing food with beer because they are learning something new.

“The flavor profiles are different and can be tricky to work with, so everyone wants to ensure the food is working with the beer...some of these beers are pretty sturdy and can hold their own, so to speak. So it allows us to create robust, flavorful food.”

Last year, HUB treated guests to five varieties of beer. Chef Scheehser fashioned the menu around all things porcine, using products from Tails and Trotters, also of Oregon. Though some of the menu has been pre-released for Feb. 24th’s second annual beer dinner (grilled quail, boneless short ribs), the theme revolves around “secret ingredients.” HUB has kept the beer list top secret from guests, though thankfully Chef Scheehser was given advanced notice and plans to use the brews in many of the recipes.

HUB brewers Thomas Bleigh and Christian Ettinger have been hard at work creating new beer varieties this past year. Bleigh says he draws inspiration from almost everything, but generally tries to give a nod to history while referencing the Northwest.

"It also stems from global and local food and beer experiences that are inspiring," he says. "Othertimes, it can be a simple desire to explore styles I’m not as familiar with. It really is a lifetime of education and an attempt to continuously expand your skill set."

As a brewer, Bleigh has tried some very interesting food and beer combinations. One of the most surprising was salmon sushi paired with a porter. "The sweetness of the porter amplified the salmon in a wonderful way."

Bleigh's go-to Hopworks beer is the HUB lager, though any number of factors may influence his moment-by-moment favorite, such as time of day, season, location and current temperature. Like almost every chef I’ve ever asked, Scheehser’s favorite beer is decidedly the IPA -- in HUB’s case, the Ace of Spades Imperial IPA that he describes as “hoppy and delicious.”

If you don’t already have your ticket, it will be a long wait until next year because Trellis’ second annual beer pairing dinner is sold out. Chef Scheehser offers the following advice for home cooks looking to couple dinner with a complimentary beer: “Drink one first, then let your taste buds lead the way.”