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Politics & Government

Kirkland's Busy Purple People Pleaser

Purple Cafe, the city's original neighborhood wine bar, is casual and kid-friendly.

WHEN LARRY KUROFSKY created an imaginary business plan for his MBA final project, he probably had no idea it would turn into the Heavy Restaurant Group, a real-life conglomerate consisting of four Purple Cafe’s, the Mexican-flavored Barrio on Capitol Hill and Lot No. 3 in Bellevue -- all within ten years.

Larry and his wife Tabitha opened the Woodinville Purple Cafe and Wine Bar in 2001, a seemingly obvious location for a wine-focused restaurant. Local wines are not the theme, however; they pay homage to the Northwest through the food choices, instead. The Kurofskys wanted a global wine list.

Two years later, the fledgling restaurant was joined by , its first of three siblings. The owners employed the same decorative feel -- an urban-inspired space of exposed brick, concrete bar and wrought-iron furniture. The heavy motif eventually found its way into the very identity of the Kurofsky’s parent company, the literally named Heavy Restaurant Group.

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“Each restaurant has its own personality,” says Kirkland Purple’s manager Kelly Bowman claiming Kirkland’s is “the neighborhood.”

Bowman says that the Purple Cafe has been very lucky during these hard economic times. Purple’s clientele is driven by regulars who often eat there upwards of three times a week. The restaurant’s location near many Kirkland businesses makes it an easy choice for weekday lunches.

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By night, Purple draws professionals and families alike. The daily happy hour from 3-6 p.m. offers workers a chance to relax with an inexpensive snack (steamed mussels, crab cake sliders, bruschetta) paired with a $3 wine pour. All Purple staff receive weekly training to hone their wine knowledge, allowing customers easy access to wine recommendations.

Bowman personally prefers French and Spanish wines to Northwest wines, but praises the French-style Allobroges from Gilbert Cellars, located out of Yakima. Purple’s privately labeled Willamette Valley pinot noir is a nice light-bodied red that goes well with a variety of dishes. Once they get to know a customer’s preferences, Purple staff are more than happy to challenge palates with interesting finds.

WHILE PROFESSIONALS ARE a common sight at a wine bar, seeing a family might seem a bit unusual. Not so at Purple with its casual atmosphere welcoming parents and kids. And because state laws prohibiting minors behind the restricted area of a bar only applies to establishments licensed to sell liquor (Purple doesn’t), kids can pull up a bar stool and order a “milk flight” right next to their parents. What kid wouldn’t love knocking back a chocolate or strawberry milk served in a goblet?

Parents will appreciate the note-worthy choices on the kids menu -- shrimp skewers with fresh veggies, grilled cheese with sweet potato fries, cranberry chicken salad -- definitely a cut above the typical “fried stuff with cheese” that restaurants fill the 12 and under menu with on a regular basis.

Executive chef Rob Kirby has been with the Kurofsky’s since the beginning, crafting dishes in a familiar Northwest vein but without a binding strictness. Hearty pastas (seared scallops, lobster mac and cheese) coexist peacefully with a variety of specialty pizzas, substantial entrees (New York steak, chicken marsala) and cheese flights.

New additions for fall include a braised lamb shank (sweetened with an intensely reduced honey lavendar demi glace) and a pork tenderloin with a creamy smear of butternut squash and apple cider puree. Try the pork with a slightly sweet Valckenberg Gerwurztraminer.

Each restaurant has a head chef who is given creative latitude. The “Tastes” portion of Kirkland’s menu features a selection of small bites from the mind of chef Jorge Ruiz, who started at Purple five years ago as the sous chef. Don't miss the goat cheese and caramelized onion tart -- the crisp, sandy crust a perfect textural contrast to the creamy cheese and juicy roasted grapes.

THE KUROFSKY'S ARE dedicated to promoting from within their organization. Kirkland’s manager Barlow began as a server more than five years ago. She says that the company’s marketing director David Yusen began as a busser before quickly moving into managment and marketing. Maybe employee loyalty is what keeps the good ideas rolling.

Take the newly launched Sunday Wine Suppers, for example. Once closed on Sundays, Purple is now appealing to the neighborhood by offering a themed three-course dinner, with themes changing monthly. The Sunday Wine Suppers are Purple’s answer to the growing popularity of wine dinners throughout the region, which can be complicated to fill with reservations and often expensive. Purple’s pre-fix dinners are $30; $50 with pairings.

While November’s “Burgundy” theme complete with beef bourguignon or grilled quail has sadly passed, December brings it "Home for the Holidays" and is sure to please locals with its Northwest-inspired menu and wine selections. Oysters on the half shell, Painted Hills pork chop with leek bread pudding and huckleberry compote and apple-cranberry tarte tatin are just some of the options available during the holiday month.

Customers who purchase the "Home for the Holidays" wine flight can take a bottle home for 50% off the menu price. And just when you thought it couldn't get any better, 10% of the Sunday Wine Supper sales will be donated to Olive Crest, an organization dedicated to preventing child abuse.

Parents, professionals and the flannel-clad will all find something to like about Purple Cafe and Wine Bar. But watch your shins on the wrought-iron furniture -- it does not budge easily!

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Kirkland Purple is located in Park Place Center next to Ravenna Gardens. Hours are Monday - Thursday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.; Sunday 12 - 9 p.m. Call 425-828-3772 for reservations.

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