Snacking in the New Year

Though separated by a mere week, New Year's Eve celebrations differ greatly from those of their Christmas neighbor.  Christmas is all about family togetherness, eating a lavish meal around a splendidly decorated table.  New Year's parties are more about fun.  The food is a partner to the party; celebrators eat and talk, eat and dance, eat and play.  So put away the fine china and colored chargers.  Think hors d'oeuvres, finger food and sparkly drinks.

There are a million options for bite-size deliciousness, from bacon-wrapped scallops to a creamy cheese topped with savory jam.  But the favorite snack at any and every party I've ever hosted is lumpia, the Filipino-style egg roll. Even if you know nothing else about Filipinos, chances are you've heard about lumpia.

There are two main varieties of lumpia: the fresh variety made with raw vegetables and a rice paper wrapper; and lumpia-Shanghai, the deep-fried meaty egg roll. We're talking about the latter, because as Homer Simpson says, "You don't make friends with salad."

This lumpia -- it's pronounced  "LOOM-pia" -- has as many incarnations as there are cooks.  However, at its most basic, it contains a wrapper and ground pork.  Shredded carrots and green onions are tasty additions.  The recipe may even evolve over years of making lumpia.  My Filipino mother-in-law made thousands of lumpia over decades of cooking before adding a new ingredient, namely oyster sauce.

Kirkland resident Laurie Jorgensen has been making lumpia her whole life. She grew up on Oahu with a Hawaiian father and a Puerto Rican mother, who taught her how to make it. When Laurie moved to the mainland, she brought the family lumpia recipes with her, and she enjoys sharing these treats with friends and neighbors on Finn Hill.

"My family has always made it, but it is Filipino," she says. "A lot of local people have moved here and still make it. We just love it."

Her experience shows how this fried snack is universally loved. Laurie stopped making lumpia four years ago when her mother passed away, but she fondly remembers serving it at family gatherings.

She varies the following recipe by browning the meat and sauteing the vegetables prior to wrapping the filling.  In addition to carrots and green onions, Laurie also likes to include bean sprouts, garlic, and shredded cabbage, and insists that they are delicious with a plum sauce dip. 

Not only are lumpia fun to eat, they are also fun to assemble as a group. Get your friends or kids involved during mixing or especially during rolling. They need to be sealed with a little water or a cornstarch slurry, if your wrappers lack enough starch to be "glued" shut.

This recipe can be varied, played with, improved upon, and altered in whatever way the cook deems prudent. Try adding diced celery, garlic, ground shrimp or oyster sauce. 

Lumpia (Shanghai style)

Ingredients:

Peanut or vegetable oil for frying
3 pounds ground pork (or 50/50 ratio of pork and beef)
½ cup finely shredded carrots (about 1 large)
½ cup sliced green onions (3-4 scallions)
1 tsp oyster sauce (optional)
2 tsp salt
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 pack (50 count) Menlo brand lumpia wrappers, thawed completely


Directions:

1. In a large bowl mix the meat, vegetables, and seasoning using your hands to evenly distribute the vegetables within the meat.
2. After washing your hands, set out a large tray covered in a piece of parchment or wax paper.  Open the package of wrappers, cut them in half diagonally and gently separate them to make it easier to grab.  Set out a dish of water or mix a slurry of cornstarch, as necessary.
3. Place a wrapper in front of you with the long flat side down and the pointed part up.  With a spoon, place meat filling in the lower part of the wrapper.  Use your fingers to shape the meat into a line.  Leave about an inch on either end for wrapping.  Start by folding the left and right corners toward the center over the filling.  Gently roll the wrapped filling upward, keeping it as tight as possible.  Rub a little water or slurry on the top corner and "seal" the roll shut.  Place the lumpia roll aside on the tray.
4. After all the rolls are prepared, heat ½ inch of vegetable or peanut oil over medium heat in a wide skillet. The oil should be hot, but not smoking. Using tongs, place one lumpia into the hot oil. The oil should come about halfway up the roll, again checking that the oil is hot enough to sizzle the lumpia. Add more lumpia rolls, being careful not to overcrowd the pan -- they should not be touching each other. Fry for about 4 minutes, then flip the lumpia over, frying for about another 4 minutes. Time varies based on the heat of your oil. They should look golden brown when done.
5. Drain the excess oil off your lumpia and place on a wire rack with some paper towel or newspaper underneath.  Do not cover finished lumpia with a lid or foil because they will get soggy.  If desired, cut the lumpia in half before serving.  Serve with Sweet Chili Sauce for dipping, available at most grocery stores.  If you're feeling extra Filipino, try Jufran Banana Sauce (sometimes called banana ketchup).