Downtown Kirkland's Spicy Hotspot Milagro Cantina Dances the Chef Shuffle

THE FIRST year in the life of a restaurant is a high energy time of creativity, growing pains and change. took Kirkland by storm last when local businessman Stuart McLeod opened the comfortably classy Mexican restaurant on Lake Street downtown with chef Chris Peterson.

Diners were charmed by the elegant wood interior, the colorful glass lanterns and the redefinition of authentic Mexican cuisine.

“Nachos, enchiladas and tequila,” says director of operations Jason Harris, “that’s what people think of when you say ‘Mexican food.’”

Milagro sought to be different, serving tostadas instead of chips, spicy chipotle salsa instead of pico de gallo, and even throwing a steak and pork chop into the mix. Regular diners have surely noticed the menu changes throughout the seasons. But just how much can a restaurant change its menu and not frustrate diners looking for a fondly remembered item?

“The first year of a restaurant is the honeymoon phase. It is acceptable to try new things. But if you completely change everything, people think you’ve failed,” says Harris.

Menu items and cocktail choices are not the only things that have changed at Milagro. The title of executive chef has already been passed on from Chris Peterson to Kristin Mills.

“It was the plan from the beginning,” says Mills, 36.

Mills gave up an executive chef position at Barrio on Capitol Hill to take the chef de cuisine position at Milagro Cantina and has been with the restaurant since day one. While she wasn’t a major part of the original menu planning process, Mills was familiar with both Mexican cuisine and Peterson, having worked with the chef at Campagne in Seattle.

Peterson abruptly ended his term as culinary director for Milagro Cantina and Hector’s in July, choosing to pursue other career options. This exit came as a complete surprise to Mills, though by this time she was already the acting executive chef at Milagro. Harris, however, seemed less surprised at the change, probably due in part to his close working relationship with Peterson as they planned renovations at Hector’s and developed a concept for a third McLeod restaurant.

AS THE busy summer season wound down, the Milagro staff went back to work creating an appropriately fall menu. Mills put her personal stamp on Milagro with three new features.

The silky ahi tuna crudo combines pink cubes of tuna with green avocado pressed into a cylindrical mold and served with crunchy plantain chips ($14). The panza de puerco boasts a generous portion of braised pork belly (unsmoked bacon); the crust has been seared to crisp perfection. The meat sits atop a grilled ring of pineapple lending sweetness to the dish along with a bacon-onion marmalade ($10).

McLeod’s favorite new menu item, according to Harris -- braised beef short ribs called costilla -- is a hearty meal of meat and potatoes. It is a “Sunday afternoon supper” kind of dish complete with braised greens and grape tomatoes ($20).

“Every chef has their own food philosophy,” says Mills.

While she hasn’t changed a great deal of things from Peterson’s original menu, subtle differences have been undertaken to be more diner-friendly. For example, the quesadillas are now made with the more familiar flour tortillas instead of the strictly authentic masa dough.

Additionally, talk is going around the kitchen regarding the basket of freshly made tostadas, accompanying salsas and lightly pickled vegetables.

“We wanted to set Milagro apart from other Mexican restaurants,” says Harris. “It was meant to be a conversation piece, to get diners involved with their meal.”

But, the tostadas have garnered mixed reviews from guests. Many mistook the authentic thickness of the masa as a sign of staleness, so Mills has corrected the problem by having the kitchen thin them out resulting in a crisper -- and, yes, more familiar -- crunchy chip texture.

MILLS FOUND her culinary calling during a transition from Shoreline Community College to the University of Washington. Her roommates at the time were all heading to Husky-land, but Mills couldn’t seem to connect with any of the available majors.

She chanced upon an ad for the culinary program at the Art Institute of Seattle and immediately felt drawn to it. Her inclination was confirmed when Mills’ mother sent her the exact same information. Mills graduated from the Art Institute in 1996 and has since worked all over the Seattle area.

Mills currently lives in the Magnolia neighborhood with her husband Harry Mills who also happens to be a chef, working with the Heavy Restaurant Group in Bellevue (Purple Cafe and Lot 3). The couple spend their days off appropriately for two food industry professionals -- they eat out.

“We love ,” says Mills who also mentioned a current fondness for the Book Bindery located near the ship canal off Nickerson Street in Seattle.

Now that her daily hands-on kitchen time is reduced to a more supervisory role as executive chef, Mills’ desire to cook at home is returning. The French-trained chef particularly adores roasting poultry.

Milagro staff have adapted well to her lighter kitchen presence. Mills likes to laugh and enjoys being around both the front of the house and kitchen staff. One employee described the mood as “less stressful” with Mills at the wheel.

“I treat people like adults,” says Mills. “As long as everyone is doing their job, we’re all happy.”

Milagro Cantina celebrates its first anniversary at the beginning of December. Rumors of an anniversary bash are circulating. Look for details of the celebration in a future edition of the dining column.